Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Eggs Benedict, Alaskan Style

Few breakfast dishes are a textural trip for the palate like Eggs Benedict.  However, what if the home cook is craving a salty protein with flavors a bit more delicate than that of Canadian bacon?  The ethereal umami of the poached egg's creamy yolk caresses the soft, slightly sweet English muffin hiding beneath.  Meanwhile, the whole gamut is highlighted by the bright flavors of a classic Hollandaise, providing the perfect balance of acid and spice.  Why overwhelm such gastronomic beauty with a piece of one-dimensional pork?

The answer is replacing the ham product with cold-cured salmon.  Whether you call it "lox" or "gravlachs", the delicacy is surprisingly easy to make, and pairs beautifully with the poached egg-Hollaindaise combo.





For POACHED EGGS:
- Small saucepan with 3 inches of water
- 2 eggs
- 1 tablespoon of lemon juice
Yield: 2 poached eggs


Bring the water to a light simmer (do not allow to come to a heavy simmer or full boil).  Stir in lemon juice.  Using a very sharp knife, slice the very top off of a raw egg, making the hole large enough for the yolk to slide through intact.  Lower the eggshell very close to the water, and gently tip the top over to pour the egg into the simmering water, trying to keep the whites and yolk as intact as possible.  Gently simmer for 4 minutes and remove from water with a skimming spoon.






For ENGLISH MUFFINS:

  • - 1/2 cup milk

- 1 tablespoon white sugar, divided
- 1 1/8 teaspoon dry yeast
- 1/2 cup warm water
- 2 tablespoons melted vegetable shortening
- 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 1/2 cups bread flour
 - 1/2 teaspoon salt
Yield: 6 muffins


Mix yeast, 1/2 tablespoon of sugar, and the warm water (~110°F).  Microwave milk until very warm (you can heat it on the stove, but it too easy to accidentally scald it that way); mix in remaining 1/2 tablespoon of sugar.  Melt shortening in microwave-safe bowl.  Layer flour and salt evenly in sifter (1/2 cup AP flour, then 1/2 cup bread flour, etc.); sift into large bowl.  Make well in sifted flour and add the liquid ingredients.  Mix and knead until thoroughly combined.  Place dough in greased bowl, cover with saran wrap, and store in warm place for 60-90 minutes.  When the dough has almost doubled in volume, lightly punch down, and turn onto surface dusted in cornmeal: take care not to handle or compress the dough more than you need to.  Using a rolling pin, gently roll the dough to 3/4" thickness.  Use a biscuit cutter or drinking glass to cut out the muffins.  Transfer to baking sheet dusted in cornmeal, cover with plastic wrap, and allow to rise in warm place for 45 minutes.  Pre-heat oven to  375°F.  Bake muffins for 6-8 minutes, flip each muffin, and return to oven for another 6-8 minutes, or until lightly browned.  To achieve the classic English muffin texture, lightly fry each side of the muffins on a lightly greased griddle (preferably cast-iron prior to serving.  






For LOX [GRAVLACHS]:
- 1/4 pound wild Alaskan sockeye [red] salmon, sliced to 1/4" thickness
- 1/2 tablespoon seasoned salt
- 1 tablespoon table salt
- 1 tablespoon white granulated sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon dried dill
- 1/2 teaspoon paprika
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 cheesecloth
- 2 cookie sheets
Yield: 1/4 pound of lox, approximately 4 servings



Combine all dry ingredients and thoroughly coat both sides of the salmon filet.  Keeping the filet flat, wrap tightly in cheesecloth.  Sandwich between flat cookie sheets, and place a few pounds of weight on top (cans of beans, pot of water, etc.)  Allow to cure in refrigerator for at least 24 hours (but no more than 72), flipping the filet over every 12 hours.  To serve, shave thin slices and serve cold.  






For HOLLANDAISE SAUCE:
- 1 tablespoon fresh-squeezed lemon juice
- 3 egg yolks
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
- Cayenne pepper (to taste)
- Salt (to taste)
- Double-boiler pan (or small saucepan and large bowl that fits over the pan, creating a seal)
Yield: 3/4 cup of sauce


Bring 1" of water to a simmer in the saucepan or double boiler.  Microwave the butter until just melted.  In the bowl (or double boiler top insert), thoroughly whisk together the lemon juice and egg yolks (an electric hand mixer with a whisk attachment makes this really easy and fast).  When the mixture has doubled in volume and thickened, transfer the bowl (or insert) to the pan of simmering water.  Continue whisking- if you stop, the heat from the steam in the pan could cook the egg yolk.  Pour a thin stream of butter into the bowl while whisking.  When all of the butter has been incorporated, add the cayenne and salt to taste.

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