Chicken Fried Steak

There are some foods that are worth the calories.  Chicken fried steak, my friends, is one of those dishes.


As if the 'standard' method of preparing it wasn't unhealthy enough, the backwoods West Virginia technique is so laden with fat, it could give a triathlon athlete a heart attack with a mere three bites.  My mother, who was well known as a non-cook, started hardening my arteries long before I knew better.  I can recall eating her chicken fried steak only a handful of times, which was probably best in the long run.  Instead of vegetable oil, she would fry up an entire pound of bacon, retaining the grease.  Into the hot, rendered pork fat went the breaded cube steak, cooked beyond the most generous definition of 'well done', subsequently blackening parts of breading.  Not quite enough flour was sprinkled onto the mess, creating a "gravy" that didn't even having enough thickener to create lumps.  The fried bacon- all sixteen ounces- was added back into the pan just long enough to warm up before the steaks were portioned onto the dining plates.  Mind you, every one of those greasy calories was intended for only three eaters.  It's a mystery how I managed to be consistently underweight for the duration of my childhood.


Much to the horror of my acquaintances here in the Pacific Northwest, I served them Mom's very non-Kosher monstrosity during lavish dinner parties that boasted otherwise sophisticated dishes.  Most diners were polite, leading me to believe that the dish was acceptable, but a well-meaning friend's vocal disgust for the quality of the entrée made me reexamine it.  As a result, I developed a traditional recipe that, although still rich, hits all the right notes.  This recipe will bring the roadside diner flavors right into your own kitchen!

Zaftig's chicken fried steak, served with smashed potatoes.

CHICKEN FRIED STEAK with 'HIGH HEAT' GRAVY


2 cube steaks, 1/3 pound each, 1/2" thick at thickest point
3/4 cup flour, divided

Garlic powder

Chili powder

Seasoned salt

Black pepper

Onion powder

1/2 cup oil
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup beef broth or stock
2 tablespoons cream


Season both sides of the steaks with seasoned salt, garlic powder, and onion powder.  Lightly season one side with chili powder and black pepper.  Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet.  Dredge the steaks through flour, shaking off any excess.  Dredge through beaten egg, and dredge again through flour.  Test oil in pan by dropping a small pinch of flour into the pan; when it sizzles, add the steaks.  Cook until both sides are golden brown, flipping only once.  When cooked, remove from pan and place on wire rack.


For the gravy: Remove all but 4-5 tablespoons of grease and drippings from the pan.  On high heat, sprinkle in 2 tablespoons of flour.  Cook for about one minute, stirring frequently.  Stir in the beef broth and cream; season to taste with black pepper and onion powder.  Allow to thicken over high heat, stirring as needed, approximately 3 minutes.


TECHNIQUE NOTES:

Cube steak dredged and ready to fry!

• Season the meat, not the flour.  Seasoning flour only provides flavor in the outermost layers, but putting spices directly onto the steak permeates both the meat and the breading.
• Many cookbooks, specifically those targeting the "average housewife", warn against cooking gravies (or even a basic roux) on a high heat setting.  As long as you can give the stove your complete attention, gravy can be thickened in just a couple of minutes.
• If you're trying to cut fat, some low-fat items may be substituted, such as using skim milk in place of cream.  However, never bread with just egg whites: the breading will burn very quickly, so always use whole beaten eggs.